Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
